Life in a canal-side village in Bangkok

Many of the bridges that span the canals are still the original wooden ones, but are being steadily replaced by concrete overpasses.

One of the pleasures of living in a large city (10 million) is that there are still delightful pockets of traditional life to be found not far off the major streets. Many canals ("klongs") remain, much fewer than a hundred years ago, but still major influences on the lives of thousands of villagers who live on them. This post is a record of a visit to one of many villages that lie between Ramkhamhaeng and Serithai Roads (also known by their previous pre-development names Sukhapibahn 3 and Sukhapibahn 2, respectively), large, busy parallel thoroughfares that traverse Bangkok's easternmost districts.

I have wandered through this village more than once (see Bangkok Photo Rambles  https://www.facebook.com/photoramblers/), and each time notice something new, greet people previously met, and am greeted by new friendly faces. During a recent ramble, photographer friend Jeremiah Boulware (https://jeremiahboulware.com/) and I returned to wander some familiar paths and to explore new ones. Here are my photo impressions. More will soon be posted on Bangkok Photo Rambles, including Jeremiah's images of the morning.

Note: All photos are copyrighted by the author. No images may be used for any purposes without permission. Please contact me at stilesphoto@yahoo.com

A typical scene of walkway construction along the canals. This one is made of concrete, which replaced the deteriorated wooden one.

Although the majority of the inhabitants are Muslim, there is a Chinese Buddhist temple in the middle of the village. 

A beautiful butterfly with a damaged wing kindly pauses for a photo.

As this was a major holiday, lottery sales were brisk. Here a man rides through the neighborhood with tickets to sell.

A beautifully weathered door with seashell adornments on the window grate. The planks at the bottom form a ramp for the owner's cat to freely access and leave the house.

There are many cats living in this village, which wander along the walkways, hiding in bushes and behind ceramic water tanks.

This old chain has apparently been repaired recently.

It is unusual to see lace curtains here. I do not know the origin of this one, which was folded over an outdoor railing.

A woman and her daughter set up their portable shop, which has items hanging from a frame on a pickup truck. This is a common sight in Thailand.

We chose to walk along a newly asphalted street tht runs along an adjoining klong that we had not explored before. There were many interesting sights along the way.

A small cement statuary piece. Children and animals are often depicted on these whimsical outdoor displays.

An elderly man collects twigs and branches from the canal banks and for a reason we could not determine, burns them.

This Chinese "spirit house" altar sits neglected under a tree near the bike path.

A young boy paddles a boat with his mother along the klong. When asked where they were going, she replied that her son enjoys going out in the boat, so they do it every once in a while.

Jeremiah captures images of a man checking his nets for fish and small river shrimp.

In the small nets were many small shrimp that he collected to be eaten, either dried or cooked. Many villagers still raise poultry and livestock, even in the city, or catch fish and/or plant fruit trees and gardens to supplement their diets.

In the large net were medium sized fish, which he left in, as the weight was too much for one person to manage and also collect the fish. He politely declined our offer to help; his wife will help him later.

As we left the klong and headed back toward the temple, we walked along a wider street that led us to a local school. Here another vendor cycles through the streets hoping for lottery ticket sales. 

A man sleeps alongside the street. Naps are a way of life here.

A broom salesman pedals through the streets, announcing his presence with a small bulb horn mounted on the handlebars. Each vendor's horn has a unique sound and rhythm, so residents know what product is coming their way.

A school van sits abandoned near the school.

Cooking pots in a window of the school's kitchen

A window in a passageway through canal-side shops.

A good luck ornament hangs above a house entrance.

A young girl gives a quick glance as she returns home from a nearby shop.

Two women wheel their portable grill (for making gai yang, or grilled chicken) from Ramkhamhaeng Road to the village. I was sorry that we were leaving, as gai yang is one of my favorite Thai foods, and it would take them awhile to cook it!

A man makes spicy papaya salad (som tam) on Ramkhamhaeng Road near the village. Many small food vendors were doing a brisk business on this holiday.

A woman from the village comes to buy food on Ramkhamhaeng Road.

A man sells many types of vegetables, including cooked corn (still warm) from his motorcycle. This is a common method of portable vending. We bought grilled chicken, spicy papaya salad and sticky rice before heading home.

Thank you for visiting this site. I hope you enjoyed the tour. Send questions and comments to me at stilesphoto@yahoo.com

Surabaya's colorful bazaar at Ampel Mosque

There are many parfumeries in the Arab quarter, where experts mix fragrances for discerning patrons. Most fragrances are for women (and most buyers are males), but there was one pre-mixed formula labeled simply "For men."

The recent bombings in Surabaya, Indonesia's second largest city, reminded me of a trip I took there a few months ago to present a two day workshop at Surabaya Intercultural School. Although the workshop was my top priority, for those who know me, it is no surprise that I was interested in exploring the old "Arab quarter" of the city. The school headmaster kindly sent me in a school car to the area to spend a couple of hours at Ampel mosque, the nearby shops and the "souk" (bazaar) through which one must walk to get to it.

Indonesia is the most populous Muslim country, so the culture is rich in both Middle Eastern and Indonesian influence. The old quarter is a section with narrow streets, traditional wooden shop fronts with open windows. People walk through the streets, dodging "becaks," (pronounced "bee-szak") pedaled and motorized rickshaws. Autos, motorcycles and small vans also squeeze through the alleyways, so one must remain vigilant, although drivers are very courteous.

Following are photos with captions of my walk through the souk and around the mosque. It was a holiday, so the mosque was overflowing and I was unable to ascend the tower for a view of the city. Nonetheless, I encountered many friendly people and curious children, as well as some (adults) who displayed obvious suspicion about my presence. I couldn't blame them for those feelings toward a lone westerner with a camera who entered their holy place, so I kept a low profile (tried to) and spent a minimum of time at the mosque.

As I reflect on the recent terrorist attacks there, I am saddened that there can be so much hatred in evil people who live among such friendly residents.

All photos are © by the author and may not be used without permission. If interested in using any of the images for non-commercial use, please contact me at stilesphoto@yahoo.com.

The souk (bazaar) stretched for two city blocks between the street and Ampel mosque. With one main aisle, it was a tunnel of bright colors in which clothing, fruits, jewelry, perfumes and oils were sold.

Typical scene inside the souk. The small flags overhead are those of Indonesia.

This woman was cutting and selling fruit.

A small side street as seen from the souk.

At the end of the souk is a street that runs alongside the mosque. Many people were headed toward the mosque.

A wash station near the mosque. 

Children were curious and friendly. The boys in center are members of a scout organization.

Friendly young men socializing near the mosque. They asked me to take their picture.

More young boys relaxing near the mosque.

These men were sitting on the steps of the mosque because it was full inside, so they were listening to the worship service via loudspeakers. 

Going back through the souk, I met many who were still en route to the mosque.

I saw only men at the mosque. Many women were shopping in the souk.

The same woman seen before, still slicing fruit.

Oil shop. I do not know what kind of oils they were: the owner had stepped out. I assume they were essential oils.

A colorful stall near the entrance to the souk.

Outside, the sun was intense (Surabaya is very near the equator). Many small shops were open. 

Keeping covered in the hot sun. The shops were old, with wooden doors and window shutters.

Motorized "becak" for hire. Passengers sit in front, facing traffic, opposite of Thailand's "tuk tuks" and "samlors" (pedicabs).

The driver of a pedal becak awaits customers.

Commerce moves down the street that passes the souk, here in a pedaled wagon piled high with what I assume are dyed dried leaves for weaving baskets. 

Lending a hand to help an elderly passenger disembark from a becak.

At the entrance to the souk, traffic slows in the narrow street due to the number of becaks that are parked there.

It is easy for the visitor to become enveloped by the modern commercial districts in large cities. Fortunately, there are almost always districts that retain traditional architecture and businesses that reflect the history of the area. If you visit Surabaya, be sure to head to Ampel Mosque. And while there, pick me up some of that fragrance "For Men." I regret not buying some. Thank you.