Karma at Thailand's Wat Phai Rong Wua: A walk through Buddhist heaven and hell

A giant guardian stands menacingly at the entrance to Hell's Garden

One of the things I find curious about Buddhists, particularly Thai Buddhists, is that although Buddhism has no god (except for the inclusive nature of prayers that are directed toward Hindu gods), the supernatural is a large part of Thai life, and includes animist beliefs, spirits (a great many Thais are obsessed with ghosts) and the belief in heaven and hell.

For this reason, there are at least nine "Hell's gardens" around Thailand, where dozens of gruesome scenes are depicted in order to warn people about the consequences of being tempted to indulge in unethical behavior during their time on Earth. The idea of heaven and hell, is of course, not unique to Buddhism, but I have yet to see anything quite like these "gardens" anywhere else.

At Wat Phai Rong Wua is one of Thailand's most popular Hell's gardens, located on the grounds of the temple, and a stone's throw away from a very large what could be called "Buddha garden", where at least a hundred large Buddha statues sit in a serene park. The statues are in reality repositories for the ashes of the deceased, and in some cases the bodies, if a Chinese burial. Each statue is unique: they are not mass produced.

My friend Jeff Harper and I recently decided to explore Suphanburi Province about an hour's drive northwest of Bangkok. Hell's garden was on our list of things to see and we made it there just before sundown after roaming around the area. WARNING: the scenes depicted are quite gruesome and may offend some sensibilities. We found the place fascinating despite the nature of it, and it taught me a bit more about Thai culture and Buddhist beliefs.

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On the grounds of the temple and across the street from "Hell's Garden" is a large field with hundreds of Buddhas sitting serenely in rows of content meditation.

The Buddhas house the ashes of deceased people, or in some cases the body or bones of a person, as in the statue on the right, which is Chinese style.
Thais cremate; Chinese bury.

The Buddhas are more or less the same size, but no two are alike.

Dominating the scene is a huge Buddha, several stories high.

A short walk across the road from the serene Buddha park is Hell's garden. It is striking in its single-minded tour of people's ideas of the ultimate punishments. It is difficult to understand how they came up with some of these! No captions are necessary, so I will just leave you inside Hell's garden...

Feeling a little playful, and perhaps a bit sacrilegious.

Two amused monks survey the scene, not seemingly worried, and why should they be?

So there you have it: karma extremes in one place. Both aspects of the temple grounds are worth a visit. Then, if a believer in the afterlife, you will probably reflect on your life!

Thailand's Makha Bucha Day

Jasmine and bougainvillea blossoms with coins sit as centerpieces on a table near an altar at Wat Sri Bun Reuang in Bangkok

One of the most important holidays in Thailand (as well as in neighboring Buddhist countries) is Makha Bucha ("Honor Buddha"), a day and evening of ceremonies at temples where devotees pray, give alms in the forms of monetary offerings to the temple projects or gifts to monks, and pay respects to Buddha through acts of devotion, such as placing gold leaf on statues and laying flowers on shrines. It is also a day when numerous lottery sales are made! This day was especially auspicious this year as the lottery drawing will be the next afternoon. Many lottery ticket salespeople were on hand throughout the day at the temple.

A colorful neon revolving wheel is set up the evening before Makha Bucha day.

Makha Bucha falls on the first full moon of the third lunar month, which was March 1st this year. I visited one of my favorite temples in Bangkok, Wat Sri Bun Reuang, located in Bangkapi district on the Klong (canal) Saen Saeb. This small temple has unique events, often with touches of humor (the temple monks are very friendly and the displays are often playful), so I wanted to be there for this important day. The previous evening, as I returned from downtown on the canal taxi, I noticed the preparations being made for the holiday. I asked a senior monk what time the ceremony would begin, and he told me it would be in early afternoon. I returned the next day to find the ceremony already in progress.

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Devotees sit for hours under a canopy listening to teachings and observing monk rituals. The cotton strings are attached to an overhead grid that the monks made the day before. Symbolically, the thread connects all attendees to each other, and to the temple, eventually leading to the large Buddha statue inside. Notice that no one's feet are pointed forward, which would be in the direction of the monks. This practice places the "lowest" part of the body away from the monks (and also away from any Buddha statue present if in a temple) as a sign of respect.

Prayer flags are also attached to each of the strings that touch the attendees.

A senior monk places an offering on the altar that was used for the day's ceremony. Silver alms plates (actually decorated tin) with other offerings are displayed on the table. Each has been carefully decorated with marigolds and strings of jasmine blossoms and roses.

Senior monks leave the covered assembly area to prepare for the upcoming ceremony.

Not all devotees spent the time under the canopy listening to lessons. Many people went to various places on the temple grounds to pay respects in a number of ways. Here a woman prays while holding incense sticks with a monetary note wedged between wooden sticks that will be placed on the specially made columns in front of her.

Visitors press gold leaf onto a series of spheres and a Buddha statue as a sign of devotion and respect. The gold leaf is usually bundled with a candle and three incense sticks that are available for a small donation to the temple.

Wat Sri monks often use mannequins as displays, and there is usually a skeleton dressed and in various forms of prayer. I did not see it this time: perhaps it was too playful for this more somber celebration.

I saw this "monk carousel" (click video play below) the first time I visited Wat Sri many years ago, and it is brought out only on special occasions. Devotees drop coins into the alms bowls as they revolve by. I have seen only one other such carousel in Thailand, but I am sure there must be more.

Monks stroll by palm readers and food stalls on the temple grounds.

This senior monk displays traditional temple tattoos, which are done by specially trained monks using only a spike dipped in ink and wooden hammer. This style has become popular among westerners ever since Angelina Jolie got one in Cambodia. However, it is meaningful only to monks who have been educated in Buddhism and can read the ancient script.

Monks circle the table of offerings, placing incense sticks in many of the foods, while the temple's highest ranking monk, or "ajaan", recites prayers and blessings.

This unusually dressed man was known to many of the monks, but I am not sure of his particular status or reason for the atypical attire. He did not participate in the ceremony. This is just one more reason I like to go to Wat Sri: there is always something or someone new and interesting to see.

A monk melts candle wax in order to affix the candle on a special tray as part of the prayer ceremony.

Close up of the decorations on the altar.

Musicians playing traditional instruments added musical interludes of traditional music.

Monks sit under parasols held by attendants during the ceremony.

One of the more intriguing offerings was this plate, with cigarettes and rolled leaves of "maag", the Thai betel nut plant, which many Thais smoke. I thought it odd, but apparently it is an old tradition.

Garlands and gold leaf placed on a Buddha statue outside of the temple door.

Inside the temple was a tray of vessels filled with holy water. Devotees can ask a monk for blessings while pouring the water into a cup. After the brief ceremony, the water is poured on either a special plant or tree outside, or on one of the figures on the temple, such as a dragon, god or goddess (from Hindu legends).

This is a detail of the meticulously hand painted wooden doors of the temple, which is typical throughout the kingdom. This portrays "Hanuman", a monkey god of Indian legend, who played a part in the epic poem Ramayana. Thai Buddhism has adopted many Hindu legends and gods, as India is where Buddha lived (as a Hindu).

Every once in a while I am extremely fortunate to come across beautiful practices unexpectedly. I had nearly decided to go home (it was very hot), but took a few minutes to go inside the small temple, where I was one of only three visitors. As I was about to leave, a stream of young monks entered and took their places in long rows, filling the temple floor. I asked one how many there were, and he answered "95". Ninety-five monks in a temple! I had only a few minutes to take photos and record one of their chants before the doors were closed.

A view of the gathering. Seated cross-legged before the prayers, they will change position as shown in the next image.

During prayers or ceremonies in the temple, monks (particularly young monks) sit with their weight on knees and toes. Elder monks usually sit cross legged or sit on chairs.

                 The haunting sound of 95 chanting monks. Click on the video below:

Thai (Theravada) Buddhism is traditional, ceremonial and disciplined. 95% of Thais consider themselves Buddhist, but not all are strict adherents, and almost everyone respects whatever level of practice others have adopted (Thai Buddhism has incorporated some traditional animist beliefs, as well as Hindu and Chinese Buddhist practices). Although monks are revered and follow strict interpretation of the teachings, I have found them to be generally friendly and they welcome respectful interactions with the general population including foreigners, especially those who speak Thai and practice respectful posture. It is a wonderful experience to observe a traditional Buddhist holiday celebration: it has helped me learn more about Buddhism, as well as Thai culture.

The laid back southern beaches of Thailand's Phuket Island

Phuket (pronounced "Poo-ket") is Thailand's largest island, located in the country's southern region, and situated just off the mainland in the Andaman Sea. Its forested mountains and numerous white sand beaches (36 beaches in all) make it an attractive destination for tourists, both Thai and foreign. As a result, Phuket has experienced explosive growth in infrastructure and commercial development (Thirty years ago, before large scale development, Phuket was host to Peace Corps volunteers).

As islands go, Phuket is quite large: 570 sq. km (220 sq. miles) and has nearly 400,000 inhabitants. It is also one of Thailand's provinces.

Recently, my wife and I traveled to the southern tip of the island to explore some of the lesser known areas and quieter beaches. The trip from the airport to Rawai beach (Thai: "Haht Rawai") took more than an hour by taxi (fare: 1,000 THB/$30), which may be why other beaches and their accompanying business districts midway are more popular and much more crowded with "fun in the sun" visitors. However, as of March 1st, a new bus route has been introduced that travels between the airport and Rawai beach.

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Sunrise on Rawai beach

RAWAI BEACH
The first thing tourists planning to visit should know, is that Rawai beach (pronounced "Rah-wye") is not a swimming beach. There is not even a sliver of idyllic white sand beach: the shore is where the "sea gypsy" fishing fleet is moored, along with the sleek power boats that roar off to other nearby islands with tourists aboard. A long concrete shaded promenade parallels the waterfront for about 1 km, ending at the busy seafood market beyond Rawai pier. Across the road are numerous restaurants, coffee shops, bars, gift shops and massage shops, which offer the visitor a large selection of places to eat delicious seafood and traditional Thai dishes, get a traditional massage and find plenty of souvenirs and beach clothing. For me, the most interesting aspect was the fishing boats and the activity surrounding them. Typically, the fleet returns from a night of fishing at about 1:00 pm and offloads the night's catch to restauranteurs.

Early morning activity as boats are loaded with goods that will be taken to nearby islands.

Workers load coconuts and pineapples onto a boat.

Buddhist monks make their daily early morning alms round along Rawai's main road.

A tour group poses for a photo after returning from a day's outing.

The walk along Rawai beach is pleasantly shaded.

At the end of the beach is Rawai pier. On the side away from the beach are the many seafood restaurants where one can buy from the daily catch and have it cooked at one of the restaurants.

A typical display of fresh seafood at the market. Prices are Thai baht per kilogram
(1 US$ = about 30 Thai baht). Due to the high level of tourists who visit the market, prices are much higher than in a market in a predominantly Thai area.

Customers choose the seafood they want, and it is weighed, priced, then cooked.

One of the chefs at a seafood restaurant by the market

Deliciously prepared sea bass...

...large grilled shrimp...

...and large mussels. 1 kg of mussels (2 lbs), 1/2 kg of shrimp (1 lb), 2 kg of fish (4.5 lbs) and two large beers cost a total of 1,300 baht ($40, cooking of the seafood included). However, it was a special price because the owner is from a town close to Joy's village in northeast Thailand. Normal "foreigner" price would be $60-70.

Two furry visitors patiently waited for morsels to be shared.
They did not have to wait long.

NAI HARN AND NA YUI BEACHES
Not far from Rawai beach are two beautiful beaches that offer clear water, white sand and little else. They are for the beach crowd, but not the night life crowd. Both are only a few minutes by motorcycle or car, connected to Rawai by a circular route. The beaches are so close that we decided to walk through the hills and neighborhoods to reach them. Not everyone is up for that, but there were a lot of bicyclists and joggers along the way as well.

Nai Harn beach

Nai Harn ("Nye-hahn") is a beautiful white sand beach with clear warm water that blankets a long sweeping curve of Phuket's western shore. It is long enough that one does not feel cramped when relaxing under beach umbrellas, and does not have a sprawling, busy business district: there are three open air restaurants, a gift shop, and on the beach is an army of masseuses on bamboo platforms to ease away one's aches and pains. A few food and clothing vendors stroll by but not the annoying crush found on other beaches in Thailand. It is a very relaxing beach with tourists mainly from Europe, many with children.

The walk to Nai Harn from Rawai took about 45 minutes, and led us through a small shopping area about 500-700 meters from the beach. Between the shopping area and beach is a peaceful shaded park with a man-made lake; nearby is a Buddhist temple that is only about 50 meters from the beach. Many joggers and others simply strolling passed by us as they made their way around the lake.

This is a nice park with shaded walkways around it, just a few meters from the beach. The Nai Harn shopping area is at the distant end.

People of all shapes and sizes enjoy the fine sand, which got very hot as the day progressed, causing many to race across from shade to water and vice-versa.

Beach lounge with umbrella rents for 100 baht ($3) for the day.

A good place to do, well, nothing!

A fishing boat and pleasure craft line up with a sand castle on Nai Harn beach.

The air mattress (rentals available) seems to be hovering in mid air, but that is because the sea water it is resting on is so clear here.

For those craving more isolation, Ya Nui ("Yah-Noo-ee") beach is less than a kilometer south of Nai Harn beach. It involves a steep climb and then decline, but is only minutes away on foot. We did not go directly to Ya Nui from Nai Harn, but went the next day, as I had been neglectful in protecting myself from the sun and had a painful burn (one would think that I would know better, living in Thailand for 13 years without burning prior to that...oh, did I mention that it is easy to fall asleep on the beach as the sun swings around the umbrellas?). There are "songtaows"--literally "two lines" (open bed, side-railed vehicles with two benches)--that can be rented to take passengers to any place near Nai Harn for 100 baht per person ($3).

A view of Ya Nui beach from the road leading to Promthep Cape. Nai Harn beach is around the hill at right center where the pleasure craft are moored.

Our walk to Ya Nui took less than a half hour from Rawai and took us through pleasant countryside where water buffalo graze and small houses dot the landscape, as well as a few guest houses, a new hotel, and occasional bar or restaurant. The hotel is about 100 meters from the beach. The only other businesses nearby are two open air, shaded restaurants across the road from Ya Nui. Most people came by car or motorcycle. We did not notice any other pedestrians on our way, despite the relatively short distance from Rawai.

A great egret finds lunch. This was on the walk from Rawai to Ya Nui beach.

Ya Nui is a small beach in a cove between Nai Harn and the southernmost tip of the island, Cape Promthep (Thai: Laem Promthep ["Prom-tep"]), a beautiful overlook of the sea and outlying islands. The beach has numerous rocky outcrops and large rocks in the water, and is a popular spot for snorkeling to see the colorful underwater life. Beach space is limited and there are no umbrellas or beach lounges for rent, so people bring their own, sit in the shade or simply lie in the sun. It is a very relaxing spot. We spent time moving between the beach and the restaurant. 

Visitors enjoying Ya Nui beach in various stages of skin exposure.

View of Ya Nui beach from a rocky hill that overlooks the sea.

Ya Nui has many submerged rocks with sharp surfaces. Foot cuts are common. Proceed with caution! Better: wear water shoes if exploring the sea life among the rocks.

A rest at a shaded restaurant with Ya Nui beach in the background.

PROMTHEP CAPE
Less than a kilometer from Ya Nui beach is the most southern geological feature of Phuket Island, Laem Promthep, or translated, "God's Cape", which juts from the island into the sea. It is a popular spot for viewing both sunrise and sunset, and has several protected overlooks, a monument to a former king, a lighthouse and a large shrine with hundreds of elephant statues. Tourists, the majority of whom are Thais, flock to the viewpoints for spectacular sunsets every evening.

Promthep Cape and Andaman Sea from an overlook.

Visitors enjoy the vista.

A visitor shows his devotion at the elephant shrine, placing flowers on various statues and putting incense sticks in urns filled with sand.

The walk from Promthep Cape to Rawai beach took about 25 minutes and wound through the rainforest on a two lane paved road, passing many interesting sights of Thai life.

A young man works on a project at his home: building a scale model boat from styrofoam.

This interesting scene includes a wooden mask. Not sure from what country, but I have never seen any like it in Thailand. I have seen somewhat similar ones in Indonesia.

Phuket Island has something for everyone, whether craving the high energy night life of Patong, Kata or Karon beaches on the western midcoast, historic Phuket Town on the southeast, the relatively quiet beaches of Kamala and Nai Yang further north, or for journeys through lush rain forest with waterfalls in the central mountains. For us, the quiet southern beaches were pleasing. Enjoy your Phuket Island vacation, and consider the many other islands in the Andaman Sea and not far away in the Gulf of Thailand. You will not be disappointed.