Portraits in Thailand country markets

Jackfruit vendors

One of the great advantages of living in Thailand is the opportunity to walk through markets, large and small, in nearly every village, town, and neighborhoods in the larger cities. No matter which market one chooses or happens to come across, the colors, sounds, sights, and mix of fragrances and smells of a variety of fresh produce and meats, flowers, and spicy garlic dishes cooking on charcoal or gas stoves is a pleasant assault on the senses. Adding to the enjoyment of the experience are the ready smiles from nearly every vendor as well as from the customers who are often caught by surprise by a foreigner in their midst. Thailand's motto is "Land of Smiles."

Recently, I visited three markets in Surin Province in Thailand's northeast region (Isaan, pronounced Ee-sahn) and came away with portraits of friendly Thais, most of whom have very little in terms of riches, but who are nonetheless happy, content with their simple life. There is a Thai saying, tam jai, which means "acceptance." Another common term is sanuk, or "fun." Rural Thai people exemplify the fusion of these two traditional sayings in what they do and how they live day-to-day.

All photos are copyrighted © by the author. It is illegal to use any image for any reason without permission. For information about the use of an image, please contact me at stilesphoto@yahoo.com.

Brothers playing on the steps of a market while their mother works at her
nearby vegetable stall.

A folding chair is just fine for playing "house" at a town's central market.

Teen girls flash smiles for the farang (foreigner).

This "pad thai" stall was quite busy. I bought two servings. Delicious!

A friendly seafood vendor

A young boy is transported by his big brother through a market.

A woman collects tamboon (offerings) for the local temple.

Ok, so not everyone is happy to see me (yet)!

Whenever you have the chance, visit a market in Thailand (anywhere). If you live in Thailand, seek a market that caters to Thai people, and go as often as possible. They can even be found in the otherwise cosmopolitan city of Bangkok. It's one of the most authentic cultural experiences you can have in Thailand!

Village farmers in northeast Thailand

Although buffalos are not used as much for farming these days, many people still raise and tend them, some for use in the fields, some for meat and milk, and some simply because they love the animals.

Northeast Thailand, known as Isan (pronounced EE-sahn), is the most populated area of the country and also its poorest. The annual per capita income in Isan’s 20 provinces ranges from 51,000-108,000 THB (US$ 1,591-3,346). Many of the people in this region are farmers who own small plots of land on which they grow a variety of crops to support themselves. The main crops are rice, sugar cane, taro or cassava, and rubber trees. In addition, nearly all raise livestock or fowl as well as fruit trees, and many tend small vegetable gardens. 

I regularly spend short periods of time in Isan where my wife and I have a home in her family's village near the Cambodian border. Over the years, I have taken hundreds of photographs of the people in the village, and in others in the region. This post combines recent photographs with others taken previously, in the hope of giving a glimpse of how people in Isan's villages live. I say "a glimpse" because although I know the people here well, I still have much to learn.

I hope this photo documentary will give you an idea of the way that a great many rural Thais live.

All photos are copyrighted © by the author. It is illegal for images to be used for any purpose unless granted permission. 

Elephants are an important part of Thai life, symbolically, historically and practically. The giant animals are no longer used in the lumber industry, so they are often used as transport for tourists and for dignitaries during special celebrations, such as this day when two village temples had their annual fundraisers. Many elephants have been retired and live a peaceful and fulfilling life in ever-expanding sanctuaries where people are not allowed to ride them. Thailand still has a large number of elephants that live in the wild. Here a procession of 15 elephants travels from one village temple to another a few kilometers away.

A musician entertains locals at the weekly large market (a smaller market is open daily in the village) while his daughter checks out the photographer. 

Unlike in many countries, cattle are not fenced in fields, but live in small pens next to the owner's house and taken to graze at various places nearby, often along roads or in harvested rice fields. They return every evening to the pens.

 The following photos are of people taken in two villages in Surin Province, showing why Thailand is often known as "the land of smiles."

Many trucks have colorful hand-painted scenes or decorations.

Chong Chom, a large market on the Thailand-Cambodia border that attracts people from many provinces.

A vendor waits for customers after carefully stacking mangoes in the form of a flower.

A young couple on their wedding day in a small village.

A convenient and popular (not to mention dangerous) mode of transportation is in the bed of a neighbor's pickup truck.

Local police in training in the district's main town.

Kite flying is very popular in Isan, especially during the windy months of December and January. This man holds his homemade kite. Many leave their kites tethered to fly all night, during which the strings vibrate with an eery moan that can be heard throughout the village.

A vendor at a local market, wearing one of the region's common straw hats

Many enterprising gardeners and farmers make rounds on motorcycles or in pickup trucks to sell produce in small villages.

A broom salesman rides or walks his bicycle through a market, announcing his presence with a bulb horn.

A farmer carries a sack of soil through a rice field to repair an earthen dam.

A woman removes outer leaves from vegetables at a market.

Cattle are herded to their day's grazing area by their owner who uses a motorcycle rather than walking.

Monks are a respected part of village life, and the local temple is the community center of every village in Isan. Here monks shop in Chong Chom market.

Buffalos are still used in the fields, but not as frequently as in the past, as small tractors are now being more widely used. Here a man drives a small herd home after a day of grazing.

A villager returns with his shrimp traps.

Socializing is very important in village society. Groups often sit for hours chatting.

A woman poses with a freshly killed chicken. The bowl holds blood from the bird. It will be congealed and used in soups.

Women use mortars and pestles to pound herbs and chilis that will be used in making the evening meal.

Some homeowners set up Buddha altars in spaces that are protected from the elements.

Boots dry near a shelter where rubber farmers stay during the sap collecting season. Note the ceramic aung at left that collects rainwater, which will be used for washing clothes and showering during the sixth month long dry season.

A village woman carries vegetables from her garden to sell at the small village market.

Rubber trees. The liquid is collected, then processed into rubber sheets and sold.

The life of Thai villagers is simple but often difficult. Some leave the village temporarily to find work in other places and send money back to the family. Despite the hardships and uncertainties of climate, Thai villagers remain quite positive and find pleasure in basic things, such as visiting with friends and family, and participating in events at the village temple.

Wandering the streets of George Town, Penang, "The Pearl of the Orient"

The first time I traveled to George Town, the state capital on the island of Penang (or "Pinang" in local language) in northwest Malaysia several years ago, I was in no mood to explore: it was a trip to renew a visa and I had to return immediately upon receiving the stamp. However, I took note of its unique atmosphere, and this time I decided to spend enough time to wander the streets of this fascinating small city to take in its history, ambiance and beautiful architecture.

In 1801, the Lieutenant-Governor of what was then known as the Prince of Wales Island, Sir George Leith, remarked that "there is not, probably, any part of the world where, in so small a space, so many different people are assembled together or so great a variety of languages spoken". While that may not be true today, there is an obvious mix of Malays, Chinese, European expatriates, and Indians who give variety as well as common cause to this Malaysian state capital. Ethnic Chinese make up over half of the city's population.

George Town, the second largest city in Malaysia, known as "The pearl of the Orient" during colonial times, is a modern city, now known as the "Silicon Valley of the East," but the northeast section of the city has been designated a World Heritage Site due to its preservation of the historic colonial style and Chinese clan homes and shops, and exudes a small town atmosphere. This is what drew me: the fascinating colors, centuries-old architecture, and the profusion of languages, religions, and cultures from around the world. Quite simply, George Town's heritage area is a delight to explore.

Following are my impressions of George Town. I hope you enjoy the tour.

All photos are © copyrighted by the author. No images may be used without permission. Please contact me at stilesphoto@yahoo.com.

ARCHITECTURE

Ornate arches and wooden shutters typify George Town's buildings. This is a view of the second floor.

Beautiful tiled floors and graceful arched passageways are found everywhere in the heritage district.

A typical two-story town house building with shuttered second floor windows and arched cover over the ground floor.

A well-maintained passageway

A type of window shade made of wooden shingles arranged in a fan shape and attached to an overhang is seen in many areas of the heritage district.

Typical architecture along a George Town street.

STREET ART

George Town is famous for its street art. Various artists have painted scenes on walls around the city, which is a major tourist attraction.

One of the most popular street art areas is Armenian Street

A small passageway known as Art Lane is a collection of artwork done by local and itinerant artists. A big thank you to John Woodward for the tip.

Art Lane

STREET SCENES

Small traditional Chinese altars are seen outside many shops and houses throughout George Town.

Human-powered trishaws (The local Hockkien Chinese call them lang-chhia[人车]) are a popular form of transportation around the heritage district.

One of the colorful shops on Armenian Street.

On the eastern waterfront are several "clan jetties" that have been in Chinese families for generations and are protected against development. Here a man relaxes at one of the homes along a jetty. The pilings are made by stacking hardened concrete-filled buckets.

A Friday Hindu prayer gathering.

Trishaw drivers await passengers in early morning...

...while some still sleep.

A vendor at the popular Chowrasta market in Chinatown.

Many noodle stalls line the streets of Chinatown and other parts of George Town and do a brisk business in the morning.

Many of the houses have repair shops on the ground floor, which spill out into the passageways.

An elderly man sets out on an egg delivery.

The Morning Market is now not very busy, and is essentially a chicken slaughterhouse.

This building is a memorial to a Hindu saint.

A small street off Armenian Street, which has several wall paintings.

DOORS AND WINDOWS

Weathered doors and shutters, as well as those brightly colored, give the heritage district an aesthetic appeal.

Lucy, the daughter of a friend of mine, and who is a budding photographer strolls along a colorful passageway.

CHINESE TEMPLES

As the predominant ethnic population in George Town, the Chinese have built many colorful and ornate temples and clan meeting halls throughout the island's history, resulting in many picturesque places of worship.

Most Chinese temples have hand-painted figures of "menshen" or divine guardians to ward away evil spirits and bestow good luck on those who enter.

A beautiful bas relief scene on the wall of a temple.

Folded joss paper serves as fuel for burning imitation money and gold during special celebrations. This act is meant to ensure wealth in the future.

An ornate altar and offerings in Jap Temple.

I hope that these photos have given you a visual treat and some idea about Penang's capital city George Town. I recommend a visit when you are in or near Penang!