Saturday, October 17, 2015

The magnificent ancient Khmer temples of Angkor

A photographer sets up to capture the sunrise at Angkor Wat.
Hidden for centuries under a tangle of jungle plants, the expansive Khmer kingdom capital of Angkor Wat in Cambodia is now drawing thousands of visitors to its imposing and spell binding temples. This was my third visit to Angkor, the world's largest religious complex, and I was just as struck by the beautiful architecture and artwork as I was the first time. This post is of images taken at three of the scores of temples in the complex, the ones most visited: Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and Ta Phrom. 
All watermarked photos are copyrighted © by the author. It is illegal to use the images without permission.

ANGKOR WAT

Dawn at Angkor Wat, the center and largest temple of the complex 

Angkor, or originally Nakor in Khmer (and  Nakorn in Thai) is from sanskrit meaning "capital city", and Wat: "temple" (used today in Khmer and Thai). The grand architectural achievement was built as a Hindu temple, dedicated to Vishnu, rather than Shiva, which was usual in that time period. Toward the end of the 12th century, Angkor shifted to embrace Buddhism and is considered a Buddhist temple today.

An artist displays his wares at the temple.

One of the towers of Angkor Wat reflected in rainwater at the temple entrance at the end of a 200 meter walkway approach from the main gate.

One of the many corridors in Angkor Wat.

Intricate wall carving detail

It is easy to imagine Khmer kings strolling through the temple. No one lived in the temples, as it was considered bad luck to live in houses made of stone. They were used solely for astronomical events and ceremonies.

Four of the hundreds of "Apsaras" or temple dancers that are carved into the walls. No two are alike. Exposed to the elements,
the sandstone is slowly eroding.

A monk gives blessings to those who wish to give a donation, pray or place flowers and incense at an altar within Angkor Wat.

This man sat here the entire time I was in the temple. I don't know if he was an actor to give ambience to the scene, a tour guide waiting for his group, if he was contemplative, or perhaps just enjoyed the thought of having his photo taken and shown around the world.

Some of the more than 1,700 devas, these carved on an inner wall of a courtyard.

A couple from Malaysia pose during a photo shoot for their upcoming wedding.

Angkor is a photographer's delight.
This couple, touring together, contributed a nice balance to the scene.

One of hundreds of mythical scenes carved into the walls of Angkor Wat.

It would be nice if this boy, walking with his father, will remember the experience, but unfortunately, at this age, his wonder, if any, will be short lived. I hope he returns one day.

Along the entire northwest wall of Angkor Wat is a spectacularly detailed depiction of the famous "Churning of the Sea Milk" from the Hindu legend when the gods and demons, after a battle won by the demons, churned the sea in order to share its nectar.

One of the hundreds of tourists visiting Angkor Wat, this monk kindly allowed me to take his photo.

Near the temple are several shops selling clothing and souvenirs, as well as many restaurants that do a brisk business catering to tired and thirsty tourists. This young boy belongs to one of the families that owns a restaurant.

Behind the restaurants is a small set of buildings with altars where people can go to pray and receive blessings from monks.

A ceramic water "aung" with lotus.

A young novice monk carries robes to the monk quarters.

A woman scoops warm water from a wood heated pot as a Buddhist nun watches.

It is recommended to go early, before sunrise for two reasons: You can get spectacular dawn shots of the silhouetted temple, particularly if there are clouds, as seen in the first two photos above; and you will miss the hordes who sleep in and arrive mid-morning. The stream of people above were arriving as I left after wandering the temple grounds for three hours.

ANGKOR THOM

Not far from Angkor Wat is the equally impressive Angkor Thom ("Great city"), the last capital of the Khmer empire. In its center is the astounding Bayon temple, with 84 giant heads, 4 on each tower of the temple, looking out in the four cardinal directions.


One side of a bridge leading to Angkor Thom. Most of the heads of the sculptures were stolen or broken off; some apparently have been replaced, but others are new reconstructions.

A doorway lintel.

An interior hallway with arched ceiling that has been given added support. Many of the arched ceilings collapsed over the centuries. Some have not yet been repaired, but it appears that repairs are underway in some parts of the temple.


One of the many carvings on the walls of the Bayon temple.

Massive heads on two of the Bayon's towers.

Classic Khmer dancers wait to be photographed with tourists.

Two giant carved heads seen through a temple window.

A passageway near the outer wall.


Tourists on the raised walkway to Baphuan temple in Angkor Thom.

A portion of the vast Elephant Terrace at Angkor Thom.

TA PROHM

On the way to Ta Prohm, I saw this girl wading in a small marsh, gathering water lilies.

One of the most intriguing temples at the Angkor complex is Ta Prohm where the roots of giant banyan trees have entwined the stones of the temple. It was decided to leave this temple in the clutches of nature to show the dramatic interplay between trees and buildings over the centuries. There is a feeling of respect for nature as one sees how it has engulfed a major architectural monument.


Sunlight manages to illuminate some of the jumbles of stones that lay along the walls of Ta Prohm.

The next three images are of a doorway in the clutches of the roots of a banyan tree.




There is a great sense of timelessness at this temple.


Wandering the haunting dim corridors of the temples of this ancient wonder, I could not help but be in awe of the technology, architectural design and art that was conceived and built 900 years ago. If your travels take you to southeast Asia, do not miss this impressive complex.

Saturday, September 19, 2015

Buddhist monks

A monk at a temple near Mae Sot, Thailand

Throughout my travels in Asia, particularly in my adopted home country of Thailand, I have observed Buddhist monks as a ubiquitous part of the culture. Not only are they spiritual leaders in Asian cultures, their temples are a focal point of village life throughout the region where people go to pray, socialize, help with building structures on temple grounds, and receive counseling, education and basic health care. Following are photos of monks who were kind enough to allow me--and in some cases invite me--to photograph them.
All photos © John Stiles. All rights reserved. It is illegal to use any image without permission.

THAILAND















CAMBODIA




BHUTAN






MYANMAR