Surabaya's colorful bazaar at Ampel Mosque

There are many parfumeries in the Arab quarter, where experts mix fragrances for discerning patrons. Most fragrances are for women (and most buyers are males), but there was one pre-mixed formula labeled simply "For men."

The recent bombings in Surabaya, Indonesia's second largest city, reminded me of a trip I took there a few months ago to present a two day workshop at Surabaya Intercultural School. Although the workshop was my top priority, for those who know me, it is no surprise that I was interested in exploring the old "Arab quarter" of the city. The school headmaster kindly sent me in a school car to the area to spend a couple of hours at Ampel mosque, the nearby shops and the "souk" (bazaar) through which one must walk to get to it.

Indonesia is the most populous Muslim country, so the culture is rich in both Middle Eastern and Indonesian influence. The old quarter is a section with narrow streets, traditional wooden shop fronts with open windows. People walk through the streets, dodging "becaks," (pronounced "bee-szak") pedaled and motorized rickshaws. Autos, motorcycles and small vans also squeeze through the alleyways, so one must remain vigilant, although drivers are very courteous.

Following are photos with captions of my walk through the souk and around the mosque. It was a holiday, so the mosque was overflowing and I was unable to ascend the tower for a view of the city. Nonetheless, I encountered many friendly people and curious children, as well as some (adults) who displayed obvious suspicion about my presence. I couldn't blame them for those feelings toward a lone westerner with a camera who entered their holy place, so I kept a low profile (tried to) and spent a minimum of time at the mosque.

As I reflect on the recent terrorist attacks there, I am saddened that there can be so much hatred in evil people who live among such friendly residents.

All photos are © by the author and may not be used without permission. If interested in using any of the images for non-commercial use, please contact me at stilesphoto@yahoo.com.

The souk (bazaar) stretched for two city blocks between the street and Ampel mosque. With one main aisle, it was a tunnel of bright colors in which clothing, fruits, jewelry, perfumes and oils were sold.

Typical scene inside the souk. The small flags overhead are those of Indonesia.

This woman was cutting and selling fruit.

A small side street as seen from the souk.

At the end of the souk is a street that runs alongside the mosque. Many people were headed toward the mosque.

A wash station near the mosque. 

Children were curious and friendly. The boys in center are members of a scout organization.

Friendly young men socializing near the mosque. They asked me to take their picture.

More young boys relaxing near the mosque.

These men were sitting on the steps of the mosque because it was full inside, so they were listening to the worship service via loudspeakers. 

Going back through the souk, I met many who were still en route to the mosque.

I saw only men at the mosque. Many women were shopping in the souk.

The same woman seen before, still slicing fruit.

Oil shop. I do not know what kind of oils they were: the owner had stepped out. I assume they were essential oils.

A colorful stall near the entrance to the souk.

Outside, the sun was intense (Surabaya is very near the equator). Many small shops were open. 

Keeping covered in the hot sun. The shops were old, with wooden doors and window shutters.

Motorized "becak" for hire. Passengers sit in front, facing traffic, opposite of Thailand's "tuk tuks" and "samlors" (pedicabs).

The driver of a pedal becak awaits customers.

Commerce moves down the street that passes the souk, here in a pedaled wagon piled high with what I assume are dyed dried leaves for weaving baskets. 

Lending a hand to help an elderly passenger disembark from a becak.

At the entrance to the souk, traffic slows in the narrow street due to the number of becaks that are parked there.

It is easy for the visitor to become enveloped by the modern commercial districts in large cities. Fortunately, there are almost always districts that retain traditional architecture and businesses that reflect the history of the area. If you visit Surabaya, be sure to head to Ampel Mosque. And while there, pick me up some of that fragrance "For Men." I regret not buying some. Thank you.

A country wedding in Thailand's northeast

Raht and Kow

I recently attended a small wedding in the agricultural area of northeast Thailand, known as Isan (pr. "ee-sahn"). Although the wedding was small and simple, and the celebrants of very modest means (all operate small farms in Thailand's poorest region in one of the poorest provinces), it was a happy affair for all involved. The celebration was a blend of Isan and Khmer (Cambodian) traditions.

I was a bit of a celebrity, of course, as few westerners (especially tall westerners) are ever seen in the village where the wedding was held, but it did not detract from the beautiful young couple who were wed in the ceremony. I was enthusiastically welcomed and sat with a number of family members of the bride (my brother-in-law was the groom), and they made me feel quite at home. It was a grand time of laughing, and socializing, a celebration of the couple's commitment, with plenty of Isan food, Thai beer and Thai whiskey.

I struggled with the conversations, as three languages were spoken: Thai, Khmer and Laotian (blended with Isan), but no one minded, and we had plenty of laughs as I tried to learn new vocabulary.

The following photos give viewers a glimpse into the traditions of an Isan country wedding. I hope you enjoy the visit. Please feel free to leave a comment, share with others, and/or send an email with questions (stilesphoto@yahoo.com)

All photos are © by the author. It is illegal to use any of the images without permission. If you wish to use any or all of the images, either for commercial or non-commercial use, please contact me at stilesphoto@yahoo.com.

Before leaving for the wedding, the bride, Kow, receives a beauty treatment from her soon to be sister-in-law, Joy.

The groom's uncles (Left front, far right, and second from right) and family friend prepare to travel to the wedding from our village, a 90 minute drive.

More family members and friends ride in the lead truck. The young boy rode inside the cab at my insistence.

As we arrived at the home of the bride's family, they were already busy preparing food. Here crickets are being fried. It is a popular snack in Isan. These were sprinkled with salt. (And, yes I did eat some.)

Before a marriage ceremony, trays of food are placed on mats and candles lit as an offering to the spirits, asking them to give good luck to the couple.

As is tradition, monetary gifts to the couple (always in cash) are displayed on a silver tray.

Traditionally, the groom gives a gift of jewelry to his bride. Here he places a gold necklace around her neck.

The smiling bride (that's a good sign).

A neighbor (left) and Kow's mother give blessing for good luck, with prepared flowers, incense sticks, candles and herb leaves.

Raht and Kow's parents pose with them for a photo.

More prayers from Raht's parents for a happy and healthy life.

Traditionally, persons wrap a gold (yellow) string around the wrists of the couple, offer wishes for good luck and a long life full of love, and give bank notes as a gift. Here one of the groom's uncles and his sister, Raht's mother, share their wishes for a happy marriage.

A neighbor wraps money in a yellow string and ties it to Raht's wrist.

I was pleased to take part in the ceremony.

Not only did I tie string around the wrists of the bride and groom, but several people wanted to give me their wishes for happiness as well. It was a lovely gesture, and a welcoming sign of friendship and acceptance. I felt honored!

Kow's grandmother, Tongbai, gives her blessing to Joy. 

The ceremony ended with the village elder, Kow's 90 year old grandfather, blessing the couple with a traditional prayer and sprinkling of water. Often, a temple monk or village headman will perform this duty, but it was fitting for her grandfather to do it.

Sprinkling the heads of the couple as prayers are said. The low bows and hands held high in a "wai" are signs of deep respect.

Two men rest in the shade after the ceremony and light up.

Tongbai, Kow's grandmother, is one of the tiniest people I have ever met. She is as feisty as she is small. She made sure my beer glass (and hers) never got below half full.

Kow received a tender hug from a close family friend as we prepared to leave.

 Following are portraits taken at the wedding.

Such celebrations give me deeper understanding and appreciation for Thai traditions.