Tuesday, April 2, 2019

Wandering the streets of George Town, Penang, "The Pearl of the Orient"


The first time I traveled to George Town, the state capital on the island of Penang (or "Pinang" in local language) in northwest Malaysia several years ago, I was in no mood to explore: it was a trip to renew a visa and I had to return immediately upon receiving the stamp. However, I took note of its unique atmosphere, and this time I decided to spend enough time to wander the streets of this fascinating small city to take in its history, ambiance and beautiful architecture.

In 1801, the Lieutenant-Governor of what was then known as the Prince of Wales Island, Sir George Leith, remarked that "there is not, probably, any part of the world where, in so small a space, so many different people are assembled together or so great a variety of languages spoken". While that may not be true today, there is an obvious mix of Malays, Chinese, European expatriates, and Indians who give variety as well as common cause to this Malaysian state capital. Ethnic Chinese make up over half of the city's population.

George Town, the second largest city in Malaysia, known as "The pearl of the Orient" during colonial times, is a modern city, now known as the "Silicon Valley of the East," but the northeast section of the city has been designated a World Heritage Site due to its preservation of the historic colonial style and Chinese clan homes and shops, and exudes a small town atmosphere. This is what drew me: the fascinating colors, centuries-old architecture, and the profusion of languages, religions, and cultures from around the world. Quite simply, George Town's heritage area is a delight to explore.

Following are my impressions of George Town. I hope you enjoy the tour.

All photos are © copyrighted by the author. No images may be used without permission. Please contact me at stilesphoto@yahoo.com.

ARCHITECTURE

Ornate arches and wooden shutters typify George Town's buildings. This is a view of the second floor.

Beautiful tiled floors and graceful arched passageways are found everywhere in the heritage district.

A typical two-story town house building with shuttered second floor windows and arched cover over the ground floor.


A well-maintained passageway

A type of window shade made of wooden shingles arranged in a fan shape and attached to an overhang is seen in many areas of the heritage district.

Typical architecture along a George Town street.


STREET ART
George Town is famous for its street art. Various artists have painted scenes on walls around the city, which is a major tourist attraction.


One of the most popular street art areas is Armenian Street






A small passageway known as Art Lane is a collection of artwork done by local and itinerant artists. A big thank you to John Woodward for the tip.

Art Lane


STREET SCENES

Small traditional Chinese altars are seen outside many shops and houses throughout George Town.


Human-powered trishaws (The local Hockkien Chinese call them lang-chhia[人车]) are a popular form of transportation around the heritage district.

One of the colorful shops on Armenian Street.



On the eastern waterfront are several "clan jetties" that have been in Chinese families for generations and are protected against development. Here a man relaxes at one of the homes along a jetty. The pilings are made by stacking hardened concrete-filled buckets.

A Friday Hindu prayer gathering.

Trishaw drivers await passengers in early morning...

...while some still sleep.


A vendor at the popular Chowrasta market in Chinatown.

Many noodle stalls line the streets of Chinatown and other parts of George Town and do a brisk business in the morning.

Many of the houses have repair shops on the ground floor, which spill out into the passageways.


An elderly man sets out on an egg delivery.

The Morning Market is now not very busy, and is essentially a chicken slaughterhouse.




This building is a memorial to a Hindu saint.

A small street off Armenian Street, which has several wall paintings.

DOORS AND WINDOWS
Weathered doors and shutters, as well as those brightly colored, give the heritage district an aesthetic appeal.




Lucy, the daughter of a friend of mine, and who is a budding photographer strolls along a colorful passageway.







CHINESE TEMPLES
As the predominant ethnic population in George Town, the Chinese have built many colorful and ornate temples and clan meeting halls throughout the island's history, resulting in many picturesque places of worship.

Most Chinese temples have hand-painted figures of "menshen" or divine guardians to ward away evil spirits and bestow good luck on those who enter.


A beautiful bas relief scene on the wall of a temple.

Folded joss paper serves as fuel for burning imitation money and gold during special celebrations. This act is meant to ensure wealth in the future.



An ornate altar and offerings in Jap Temple.

I hope that these photos have given you a visual treat and some idea about Penang's capital city George Town. I recommend a visit when you are in or near Penang!