Rambles through Hanoi

Pedicab drivers wait for passengers near Hô Hoàn Kiêm (Sword Lake) in the Old Quarter.

Hanoi's Old Quarter is a wonderful scene of sidewalk food preparation, small colorful shops that spill onto the sidewalks, groups of people socializing at all hours, hidden temples, flower and fruit vendors on bicycles, and its famous motorcycle hordes and weaving traffic that challenge even the bravest pedestrians. Although Vietnam remains a communist country, there is little outward evidence that it is much different than capitalist countries: McDonald's, Burger King, KFC, and Circle K ironically are the new invaders from America; Budweiser and Stella Artois beers compete with local brands; Marriott, Sofitel, and Sheraton Hotels are seen throughout the city. To be sure, people are reminded of the party that rules: red flags with yellow stars and political posters are ubiquitous in Vietnam's capital city.

I visited Hanoi on two occasions and was immediately drawn to its organic, lively street life. The following are images and accompanying descriptions of my rambles through the city during my second visit.

Note: it is illegal to use any of these images without permission from the author/photographer. If you would like to use any image for any purpose, contact me at stilesphoto@yahoo.com.

0, 2, and 3-wheeled transport

Some of the things one first notices in Hanoi are the throngs of pedestrians, bicycles, motorcycles, and pedicabs competing with cars, buses, and trucks for passage on all types of public thoroughfares. Hanoi especially is legendary for its chaotic swarm of motorcycles, but traffic laws have made travel more convenient and safe. For instance, motorcycles are now required to stay in the right lane on busy roads, so that larger vehicles can travel more efficiently and safely. Bicycles are still a major mode of transport and have traditionally been used for mobile vending: the dazzling arrays of beautiful flowers are famously sold from large baskets on the back of bicycles.

 

Probably the oldest mode of transporting goods in Vietnam,
as in other Asian countries.

I wanted to stay until someone needed to get to their motorcycle next to the wall, just to see how they did it, but no one came during that time.

A hopeful pedicab driver eyes me. Sorry, I'm on a ramble!

Pedicabs are a popular way to see the sights of the Old Quarter.

Flowers are readily available on almost every corner.

A big load of puffed grain snacks.

Willows are very popular in Hanoi. I was told that they are
the symbol of the city.

Large motorcycle loads are very common.

Bicycle vendors can easily move around until they find a suitable spot.

As in many Southeast Asian cities, many people roam the streets for plastic and cardboard, which are then sold by the kilogram to recycling centers.

A typical scene of swarming motorcycles on a city street in the Old Quarter.

A man squeezes his child onto his motorcycle as he transports flowers.

A very dangerous way to travel on city streets.

Tomorrow's chicken soup.

Sometimes there is too much loaded, so pushing is the only option.

Carrying capacity depends on one's creativity.

Sidewalk scenes

Hanoi is a vibrant city, with modern facilities, but still steeped in tradition. Small shops and vending carts can be seen everywhere, and residents spend hours socializing on the sidewalks of the city, at all times of the day and night. Typically, groups sit on tiny plastic stools and chat over noodles, tea, or beer while shoppers weave through the maze. It is an important cultural and social aspect of Vietnamese life. 

Detail of a door in the Old Quarter

A popular stamp maker on a street with many stamp shops

Traditional Vietnamese figures in an arts and crafts shop

A night scene in the Old Quarter

An early morning corner scene of vendors and street breakfasts

This is an unusual outdoor display of beautiful Vietnamese cabinet, ceramics, doorframe, and gracefully shaped ornamental tree. 

A typical late afternoon gathering on a Hanoi street

This scene seemed almost too iconic, that it must have been set up!

The front of St. Joseph's Cathedral, a 19th-century Gothic revival building.

Beer is popular in Vietnam. Here a craft brewer taps a tank for a visitor.

Hanoi has many artificial lakes. Here, people try their luck at fishing, with skyscrapers reflected in the water.

Many people smoke strong tobacco (Thuoc Lao: "Lao tobacco") using a bamboo water pipe. This man offered me a toke. I am not a smoker but accepted his offer. It has a kick alright! 

Many houses on "Train Street" have been painted with colorful designs or scenes. The trains that pass by these buildings are only a couple of meters from the walls. Pedestrians are not allowed during train passing times!

A friendly man was happy to pose for me.

This happy gentleman also agreed to have his picture taken.

A group of men chat on the sidewalk as they enjoy drinks. 

TEMPLES

Buddhism is the main religion of Vietnam, and temples are typically Chinese style: ornate, with mythical creatures (generally dragons), large drums, bells, and ancient legendary figures, in addition to the familiar and revered Buddha statues.

Chinese temples often have coiled cone-shaped incense
that burns for a long time.

A typical altar in a Chinese Buddhist temple.

Visiting devotees attend a monk blessing ceremony in a temple outside of the city.

An elderly volunteer sweeps the temple grounds.

Monks chanting during the session.

Buddhist prayer flags

A small altar on the temple grounds.

Enormous figures tower over the meeting hall.

I spent several minutes trying to find a way into this temple in the Old Quarter. It was amazing: a jungle atmosphere.

Incense sticks burning in a large metal "thurible."

Beautiful carvings in a small stone pagoda.

Many figurines and tiled mythological creatures adorn the temple walkways.

The temple grounds had lush vegetation everywhere.

A touching and sad scene.

Hanoi's Old Quarter is full of unexpected traditional delights. Be sure to spend time there when you visit the city!