Thursday, September 27, 2018

The streets of Saigon


A short two day visit to Viet Nam's largest city, Saigon (or officially, but not often used, Ho Chi Minh City) left me with wonderful memories of meeting friendly people and seeing the fascinating culture on the streets of the main part of the city, District 1. As my former teaching colleague and fellow photographer Jason Cordray, who lives in Saigon summed it up: "Elegance and decay weave a tapestry of urban life here."

Everywhere I went, there were people sitting in groups on the sidewalks, sharing a meal or drinks or just friendly conversation. It is a very social society.






From the moment I began exploring this city of nearly seven million inhabitants, I saw that its atmosphere and cultural signatures are different than in other cities, but also there is a familiarity that tapped on my memory, with wisps of images of other places in Asia, yet it is distinct, even from its in-country neighbor to the north, Hanoi.

Saigon is at once beautiful and degraded, sleekly modern and ancient, international and traditional. Walking the streets of Saigon is an unforgettable and exhilarating experience. I hope you enjoy the tour, and plan your own visit to this enchanting city.

All photos are copyrighted © by the author. It is illegal to use any images for any use, commercial or non-commercial without permission. If you have inquiries, please contact me at stilesphoto@yahoo.com.


Rising early on my first morning, I took a short walk through the neighborhood near the Saigon River in District 1. I didn't have to go far before I encountered scores of people buying fruit, omelettes, breads, and drinks for breakfast.






This man insisted that I take his picture.

Tiny shops, most a meter off the ground, were packed with just about anything one would ever need.

In a small alleyway, a man prepares food for locals.

It is not hard to imagine this woman doing the same thing in the same shop 50 years ago.

Bamboo and weathered concrete combine to form a beautiful image.

I met smiling people everywhere.

The popular Ben Thanh market is under renovation, so the stalls have moved to nearby streets. It is a sensory overload!

These bags are full of various types of sugar!

A remarkable variety of mushrooms.

This woman was tediously (but very quickly) peeling water chestnuts. It took her about five seconds to completely peel one.

A common sight is people moving huge loads of commerce through the narrow streets. Whether over the shoulder, by motorcycle, hand truck or yoke baskets, they moved a lot of inventory!

The meat market

A commonplace small business is the mobile carrying pole with two baskets or buckets (depending on what they are selling) on both ends.

A young man takes a cigarette break.

Ben Thanh market is undergoing renovation.

In Chinatown, shops are jam packed with festive paper lanterns and other decorations.

Colorful decorations for the upcoming Mid-Autumn Festival. Unfortunately, I was a bit early.

Inside a Chinese Buddhist temple we came across several young men working on a long dragon that they will dance under in the festival parade.

A woman places large joss sticks at various altars in the temple.

Two men pass the time in conversation and drinking tea at the temple.

A woman pauses to pray before placing joss sticks in sand-filled bowls around the temple.

This old woman must have been in her 90s. She walked slowly through the alleyway, pausing any time a chair was available for resting. 
The "elegance" to which my friend Jason referred is found mainly in the beautiful French colonial style buildings that are scattered about the city, many in District 1. the Vietnamese have restored them and they continue to be in use.


The Saigon Opera House

Ho Chi Minh City Hall, finished in 1908.

Hotel Majestic, built in 1925 by a Chinese business man in the French colonial and French Riviera styles.

Hotel entrance

Hotel reception lounge

Gorgeous Majestic windows
Quite noticeable everywhere is the practice of "motorcycle perching." The people of Saigon have perfected it!




In this city of motorcycles, nearly everyone wears a helmet.
Motorcycles are ubiquitous in Viet Nam. It is gratifying to see that nearly all who drive or ride on motorcycles wear helmets. I am especially pleased to see that children's safety is a priority in this country, unlike in so many others in Southeast Asia.
As in many cities, graffiti art graces many of Saigon's walls. The paintings are often both stylistic and thematic.

Friendly smiles are seen everywhere in Saigon.

These are air roots of the oldest tree in Saigon (approximately 300 years). 

A woman sleeps on the ground in a covered passageway. I do not know if she was homeless, but there was a small altar and some belongings next to her.
Saigon has many upscale and sub culture cafes, book stores and coffee houses. This one is popular with both tourists and Vietnamese: the Propaganda Cafe, which has a revolutionary theme.

In step with places around the world, Vietnam has its own craft breweries. This one is on Pasteur Street, from which it got its name. The beer shown is quite unique: dragon fruit gose, which has a sour, fruity taste. 

An air conditioner had just been lifted through the upper window. As for the towels in upper left, my experience tells me they are from a massage shop.

A lot of people in Saigon nap in the daytime, and just about anywhere. This old man slumbers on a furniture display in a park.
There are two model boat builders near the Opera house. The scale models they build are amazingly detailed.

Vietnamese know this best.

An iconic street scene in Saigon.

Parents and grandparents were happy to show off their children to us.


View from the 49th floor of the Bitexco Building, across the Saigon River to the Landmark 81 building, now the tallest building in Southeast Asia.

I hope you enjoyed the photo tour of Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City. If you ever have the chance to visit the city, do. You won't regret it! 

Contact me at stilesphoto@yahoo.com