Wednesday, July 1, 2015

The streets of Yangon, Myanmar

Trishaws are common in Yangon, although limited to outside the busy city center.
Long an isolated country, Myanmar (Burma) is now awakening to the impact of investment from the outside world. Anxious to catch up, it is faced with the daunting task of balancing development with tradition. Bangkok largely failed to protect its traditional culture, and even the rest of Thailand is now looking to have more conveniences, even if it means losing part of its cultural identity in favor of advancing technology and transport. In talking to various people in Yangon, this is a concern very much on their minds. The army's presence is not evident, and memorabilia and T shirts extolling democracy are openly sold.


Scaffolding is made by lashing bamboo pieces together to build new office buildings and hotels.

Surprising to me, Yangon is not much like Bangkok at all. Although only half the size (5 million) of the Thai capital and a predominately Buddhist country, Myanmar resembles more its western and southern neighbors of Bangladesh, India and Malaysia. Swarms of pedestrians move along the streets, trishaws carry passengers mainly in the old part of the city, and the food is quite different than that of Thailand. Many men, as well as most ladies, wear a wrap-around garment known as a "longyi", similar to those worn in India and Bangladesh. 


A man looks out over an intersection near an abandoned crumbling colonial building. So many buildings from the British colonial period have been neglected and are crumbling. I have no doubt that they will now be replaced with new condos, malls and office buildings.
The streets of Yangon are now crowded with used cars largely from Japan and Thailand, which causes not only traffic flow problems (many traffic jams and slowdowns), but since all imported vehicles are right-hand steering as in the rest of Southeast Asia, and vehicles stay in the right lane, as in China, Europe and the U.S., driving takes on an added safety precaution. I'm told that in five years, all cars will have left-hand steering. An added bonus is that no motorcycles are allowed in the city, resulting in a much more pleasant atmosphere, even though the cars and speeding aged buses use blaring horns far too often, scattering pedestrians before them.



Yangon is a colorful, bustling city with glistening temples and vibrant street markets. If one wishes to see Myanmar before it loses much of its charm and traditional scenes, the time to visit is now.


Street markets abound in Yangon. It is a good way to see the microcosm of Myanmar society and culture.


Schwedegon pagoda is Myanmar's largest, and was established over 2,500 years ago. The gold purportedly is from the ancient Thai (Siamese) capital of Ayyuthaya that the Burmese sacked in the 17th century.
I hope you enjoy the photo tour. As always, I welcome your comments.

All photos © by the author, all rights reserved. No photo may be copied or used without permission.


Buddhist monks can be seen everywhere in Yangon. Unlike Thai monks who are accorded deep respect, the Burmese monks appear to be more pedestrian, partaking in normal activities at all hours, and can be seen whiling away an afternoon at a tea shop, chatting with people and smoking cigarettes. Like their Thai counterparts, they receive alms and food in the morning as they walk through the streets.

These pigeons caught my attention, balanced on wires in front of the wall of a building across from Scott Market.

The lower trunk of sacred bodhi trees are painted white
and encircled by colorful ribbons or fabric.
A typical street in Yangon.


A sign of the times. This is Myanmar's first western fast food restaurant that opened in late June 2015, next to a Hindu temple.


Window in the old city.

These water jugs, hanging from the branch of a bodhi tree, contain drinking water for monks.

Brightly dressed ladies as seen from Scott Market.

A woman gathers dried laundry from a rack behind a snarl of electrical and phone wires.

As in other southeast Asian countries, astrologers are popular in Yangon.

The shop of an engine repairman.

Trishaw drivers line up to pick up passengers from a ferry.

Many people hang dried rice on buildings to feed birds. It is considered a way to "make merit" for Buddhists.

Lottery tickets are popular in Yangon. 

A trishaw driver patiently waits for passengers in the rain.

A doorway used for temporary storage.

I spotted this man coming down the street carrying freshly butchered chickens on his head. He eyed me, stopped, and posed. We both enjoyed the encounter.

If you are planning a trip to Southeast Asia, I recommend a visit to Myanmar. It is changing, but still largely has retained its traditions. But go soon before "progress" changes it forever.

Next: The markets of Yangon

Wednesday, April 22, 2015

Walking the streets of New York

Our trip began and ended at Montrose Avenue subway station in the Williamsburg section of Brooklyn. In order to get to the DUMBO area, which is also in Brooklyn, one has to go into Manhattan, transfer lines, then return to Brooklyn's York Street Station. The New York subway system is antiquated (110 years old), but very efficient (except for getting from one line to another in Brooklyn and Queens).

I met up with friends in New York, and for two days walked the streets of this dynamic city. One can spend a lot of time describing the energy, sights, and captivating mix of people who crowd the sidewalks of this pulsing metropolis. Instead, I captured images as we walked through Brooklyn's DUMBO area, across the Manhattan Bridge, and around lower Manhattan. I hope you enjoy the tour.

All images, unless otherwise noted, are by the author. All rights reserved, © John R Stiles. It is illegal to use any image without permission. For information regarding prices for purchasing prints or use of images, please inquire by email: stilesphoto@yahoo.com. 


The DUMBO (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass) area of Brooklyn's historic waterfront is an upscale neighborhood of converted warehouses, chic loft apartments and hip dining establishments between the Manhattan and Brooklyn bridges, intermingled with  traditional apartment buildings like this one.
In almost every block striking murals give life to playgrounds, bridge underpasses and brick walls.
Dumbo is the area roughly between the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges. Here the Manhattan Bridge towers above the waterfront, with the Empire State Building seen across the river between the bridge's towers.
A long brick wall of an old warehouse currently undergoing renovation is covered with a variety of artistic graffiti.

Inside a warehouse that is being renovated to re-open as a playhouse.

A plexiglass house by a Scandinavian artist sits under the Brooklyn Bridge with a view of the Manhattan skyline across the East River.

Another warehouse renovation project on the Brooklyn waterfront.

An indoor carousel on the waterfront awaiting the summer crowds.

The Manhattan Bridge is a noisy trip across the river to lower Manhattan: trains rumble continuously across the bridge, giving the sensation of a series of earthquakes.

Most visitors opt to walk or bicycle across the Brooklyn Bridge, but in doing so miss the iconic view of the bridge and Manhattan skyline as seen here from the Manhattan Bridge.

Near the end of the bridge, the Bowery greets walkers with colorful graffiti on the sides of buildings.

Sprawling, hectic Chinatown is at the end of the bridge.

This hot dog stand is typical of the many food offerings found
all over the city. I was intrigued that there is actually a papaya hot dog, but I did not try one.

All cities have homeless people and New York has its share. However, none were aggressive or pushy: they all politely stayed in one spot and asked for help. This man was at least able to get a coffee before his nap.

This pub on E 15th near Irving Street is one of several commercial references to Washington Irving. It is not far from Union Square.
--Photo by Lee Wanke


It is said that one hears a siren every 15 minutes no matter where one happens to be. It was certainly true as I wandered around Manhattan: most were ambulances and fire trucks. Here police arrest two persons for disorderly conduct. I asked one policeman if they were all needed (including the command post van) for two drunks. He smiled and said "No, we were here already for a protest at Union Square." (Union Square can be seen in the background.)

The famous Strand Bookstore.

At first I thought this was another homeless person, but then changed my mind when I saw the good quality clothes, boots and backpack. I would have liked to find out the person's story.

A colorful mural at a pet store.

The Flatiron Building on W. 23rd Street

This young man had a sign that targeted empathetic passersby. Interestingly, ten minutes later when we backtracked, he had a new sign that read "Bags stolen. Lost all my clothes and money." 

This man, outside of a henna skin art spa, was handing out discount coupons. When I asked for one, he flashed a brilliant smile and said, "Oh no, this is for ladies only. But you can give one to a lady friend. Take two!" I just had to get a shot of that uniform and his great smile. He was very accommodating.

"Live Bait," a New Orleans style restaurant and bar on W. 23rd Street across from Madison Square Park. Great food and ambiance, continuous New Orleans jazz playing from the speakers.

Panorama of Madison Square Park

Madison Square Park, a lovely place to sit and watch
New Yorkers stroll by.

A young dancer leaps for her mother who was taking photos.
Madison Square Park.

"Eataly", a huge indoor Italian market on 5th Avenue.

Kitchen at a restaurant/bar in the East Village. 

A return to Chinatown on Day 2. The streets are jammed with vendors and customers. 

Street performers entertain all over the city. This is near City Hall.

An interesting staircase in the middle of a bar in Brooklyn. Another nice venue with great ambiance.
There is no other city like New York. It is vibrant and constantly changing, the people a collage of personalities, its shops and restaurants alluring, the parks fabulous. Best of all, it is a walking city. Most of the cars on the streets of New York are parked, and the people walk from them to their destinations, unlike most other places where people circle parking lots to find a spot as close to a store as possible. The subways offer a very efficient way to get around the city, or to other boroughs when necessary. Add me to the long list of people who say, "I love New York" and mean it. But I won't buy one of those dumb T shirts.