John Stiles Photoblog: A country wedding in Thailand's northeast

Raht and Kow

I recently attended a small wedding in the agricultural area of northeast Thailand, known as Isan (pr. "ee-sahn"). Although the wedding was small and simple, and the celebrants of very modest means (all operate small farms in Thailand's poorest region in one of the poorest provinces), it was a happy affair for all involved. The celebration was a blend of Isan and Khmer (Cambodian) traditions.

I was a bit of a celebrity, of course, as few westerners (especially tall westerners) are ever seen in the village where the wedding was held, but it did not detract from the beautiful young couple who were wed in the ceremony. I was enthusiastically welcomed and sat with a number of family members of the bride (my brother-in-law was the groom), and they made me feel quite at home. It was a grand time of laughing, and socializing, a celebration of the couple's commitment, with plenty of Isan food, Thai beer and Thai whiskey.

I struggled with the conversations, as three languages were spoken: Thai, Khmer and Laotian (blended with Isan), but no one minded, and we had plenty of laughs as I tried to learn new vocabulary.

The following photos give viewers a glimpse into the traditions of an Isan country wedding. I hope you enjoy the visit. Please feel free to leave a comment, share with others, and/or send an email with questions (stilesphoto@yahoo.com)

All photos are © by the author. It is illegal to use any of the images without permission. If you wish to use any or all of the images, either for commercial or non-commercial use, please contact me at stilesphoto@yahoo.com.

Before leaving for the wedding, the bride, Kow, receives a beauty treatment from her soon to be sister-in-law, Joy.

The groom's uncles (Left front, far right, and second from right) and family friend prepare to travel to the wedding from our village, a 90 minute drive.

More family members and friends ride in the lead truck. The young boy rode inside the cab at my insistence.

As we arrived at the home of the bride's family, they were already busy preparing food. Here crickets are being fried. It is a popular snack in Isan. These were sprinkled with salt. (And, yes I did eat some.)

Before a marriage ceremony, trays of food are placed on mats and candles lit as an offering to the spirits, asking them to give good luck to the couple.

As is tradition, monetary gifts to the couple (always in cash) are displayed on a silver tray.

Traditionally, the groom gives a gift of jewelry to his bride. Here he places a gold necklace around her neck.

The smiling bride (that's a good sign).

A neighbor (left) and Kow's mother give blessing for good luck, with prepared flowers, incense sticks, candles and herb leaves.

Raht and Kow's parents pose with them for a photo.

More prayers from Raht's parents for a happy and healthy life.

Traditionally, persons wrap a gold (yellow) string around the wrists of the couple, offer wishes for good luck and a long life full of love, and give bank notes as a gift. Here one of the groom's uncles and his sister, Raht's mother, share their wishes for a happy marriage.

A neighbor wraps money in a yellow string and ties it to Raht's wrist.

I was pleased to take part in the ceremony.

Not only did I tie string around the wrists of the bride and groom, but several people wanted to give me their wishes for happiness as well. It was a lovely gesture, and a welcoming sign of friendship and acceptance. I felt honored!

Kow's grandmother, Tongbai, gives her blessing to Joy.

The ceremony ended with the village elder, Kow's 90 year old grandfather, blessing the couple with a traditional prayer and sprinkling of water. Often, a temple monk or village headman will perform this duty, but it was fitting for her grandfather to do it.

Sprinkling the heads of the couple as prayers are said. The low bows and hands held high in a "wai" are signs of deep respect.

Two men rest in the shade after the ceremony and light up.

Tongbai, Kow's grandmother, is one of the tiniest people I have ever met. She is as feisty as she is small. She made sure my beer glass (and hers) never got below half full.