Laid back Vientiane, capital of Lao PDR (Laos)

An example of the beautiful architecture of Lao temples

Thinking of where to spend two days to fulfill my 90 day visa renewal, I decided to go to Vientiane (pronounced "Wee-en-CHUN"), the capital city of Lao PDR (Laos). Just across the Mekong River from Nong Khai in Thailand, it was a relatively inexpensive getaway, and an opportunity to explore a new city.

Vientiane was not open to foreign tourists until 1989 as it was still in the post war reconstruction (the American War as it is known in the region), so it was especially attractive to me as I was unable to visit during my first two years in Thailand in the late 80s.

Traveling with my friend and fellow photographer Jeremiah Boulware, we spent the better part of two days and one night exploring the city, preferring to wander toward various landmarks, but with the intent of taking detours, and seeing life of Laotians along the small streets in the old part of the city.

What we discovered immediately is that although between the neighboring countries of Thailand and Vietnam with their bustling cities, Vientiane by contrast is a quiet city with tree-lined streets and a much slower pace, as if it had not changed in decades. This made for a pleasurable and stress-free visit with opportunities to experience traditional Lao life.

All photos are © by the author. No photos may be reproduced or used for any purpose without permission. If interested in use of any photograph, please write to me at jsscience@yahoo.com. 

Like in many countries in Southeast Asia, the motorcycle is the most efficient and cost effective mode of transportation for families. It is also the most dangerous, particularly for the very vulnerable children, and especially for those whose parent texts while driving!

An army of young women with babies in slings move through the city, asking for extra money to help feed them and their children. I wish I knew if this is legitimate or a scam. Hard to know.

A Buddhist monk protects himself from the sun as he walks the streets near the fresh market in the old city.

A "tuk tuk" driver adds a decal to his motorized three wheeler.

Most vendors sit in the shade as they patiently await customers. 

It did not take us long to get very thirsty in the heat, so we ducked into a small open air restaurant and had--what else?--Beer Lao with ice.

As in neighboring Thailand, people eat wherever is comfortable. This woman casts a wary eye at the camera-wielding foreigner.

Tuk tuks and their drivers gather in the shade to wait for customers. There was never an aggressive tout trying to get passengers, just friendly people who inquired pleasantly, "Tuk tuk Mister?"

A driver pauses for a smoke during some down time.

Jeremiah takes photos from the tower of Patuxai Monument.

Vistors pause to take "selfies" in the shaft of light from a tower window.

Jeremiah strolls in the park at Patuxai Monument with a crowd of other tourists.

Photo time at the fountain in the park at the monument.

The beautiful "That Luang" (Golden temple), the national symbol of Laos, was  quite a walk from Patuxai Monument. It is a beautiful sight, although on this particular day it was closed, so we were unable to tour the grounds inside the walls. I recommend taking a tuk tuk (we hired one to take us back).

A woman, twin daughters and their dog run an errand.

Smoke from grilled meats at a riverside stand glows in the lights. The riverside is a popular social destination for visitors and locals alike. Shops, restaurants and a long sidewalk atop a river wall draw many people for nighttime entertainment and socializing. Lights from neighboring Nong Khai Thailand are visible across the Mekong.

We wandered around the small streets between our hotel and the river, not knowing exactly if we were headed in the right direction. This generally is the type of meandering that brings us across interesting scenes of everyday life during our photo rambles. Here a family grills sausages, not only for themselves, but for sale. Many families supplement their incomes--or it can be their sole income--by cooking simple meals or snacks for neighbors.

Another family grills fish.

We came upon a large market that had a variety of foods, including fresh produce, for sale. Here the driver of one of many tuk tuks that transports passengers looks for a place to park.

There are many types of rice grown in the region, and prices vary depending not only on the type, but where it is grown.

A vendor sits on a platform with his fruit.

A friendly rice vendor flashes a smile for the camera.

Many red lanterns remain outside shops and homes a month after Chinese New Year.

This window frame did not become skewed as the building settled, but was made parallel to the sloping roof, which caused an obvious problem when the standard shutters were added.

An interesting attempt to fill gaps in a poorly made wall made for a unique self portrait reflection.

Many women set up shop for manicures and pedicures anywhere convenient. One woman, whose basket of equipment was tied to her bicycle, stopped in traffic to ask if we wanted a manicure. We declined, and she cheerfully pedaled on.

Sisaket temple has 5,000 Buddhas in the wall recesses.

Jeremiah at Sisaket temple.

A monk at That (Wat) Si Muang performs a blessing for a devotee.

A cotton string connects the devotee to the monk, strengthening the power of the blessing.

Detail of beautiful wood carvings that adorn the shutters at That Si Muang.

A temple caretaker at That Si Muang 

Like their neighbors the Thais, Laotians can sleep just about anywhere...

...and this woman's ability to sleep in an impossible position impressed me.

Flowers in a large cement water urn outside of a restaurant. This type of gardening is common in Thailand and Laos.

Novice monks head down a side street toward their temple near the night market.

A child stares disapprovingly at the photographers as she and her grandmother wait for customers to buy colorful helium balloons.

A trip to Vientiane gives one a sense of timelessness. It is apparent that not much has changed significantly since the country has opened up to tourism. However, people note that there is new development starting from Chinese investors. If Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand are any indication of how this will change the atmosphere, it is recommended that anyone considering a trip to Laos do it soon.

An album of the photo ramble, including outstanding photos by Jeremiah Boulware may be viewed at Bangkok Photo Rambles on Facebook.(https://www.facebook.com/photoramblers/