The Christmas markets of Austria, Bavaria and Czechia

Vienna Rathaus (City Hall) and its Christmas market.

Germany, Austria and Czechia are host to millions of tourists each year, and one might think of spring and summer as optimal seasons to visit this beautiful area.Of course, that is when the weather is most accommodating, but the coldest time of the year also sees throngs of visitors from around the world, who go to enjoy the colorful Christmas markets.

I had not been to a German Christmas market for many years and was excited to return last December. For good measure, Austria and Czechia were added to the itinerary, which with Munich, offered a convenient and compact triangular route during the festive season. The eight day tour of four beautiful historic cities and their holiday markets began and ended in Vienna, and included in order, Prague, Munich and Salzburg. 

VIENNA (WIEN)
Even in the coldest months, Vienna is a romantic city, steeped in the rich history of the world's great classical music composers such as Beethoven, Brahms, Bach, the Strausses, Haydn and Mahler, among many others. One can imagine the music flowing out of the windows as they composed their incredible masterpieces. Since Christmas markets were our top priority we wasted little time in finding them. Our first stop was to the large market in the plaza of Karlskirche, which bustled with activity and merriment well into the night.

The Christmas market as seen from the steps of Karlskirche.

A bit colder than the tropics! Temperatures hovered near freezing all week.

This carousel is powered by two men riding bicycles that in turn spun the delightful ride. This is an example of the sense of fun that pervades the Christmas markets in this part of the world.

What would a carnival-like market be without an organ grinder?

A merchant hawks his wares.

Small loaves of bread fresh from a wood fired oven at the market.

A view looking back at Karlskirche

Just "horsing around"!

A steady stream of potential customers keep the market humming.

Another market we visited was at the Rathaus (City Hall--see photo at top). It was a sprawling neon lit affair next to a unique skating park, with lanes curving throughout.

Rathaus

Many trees in the Rathaus park were covered with strings of tiny lights.

By far the most popular drink during Christas time is "gluwein" (mulled wine). Here two ladies chat over steaming cups of the strong drink.

Skating park near the Rathaus.

St. Stephan's Cathedral is not only an exquisite structure, but it also had a lively Christmas market.

The plaza at the cathedral and many market stalls.

Two colorful stalls at the cathedral market

Beautiful hand crafted ceramics for sale.

The markets are not only for buying gifts and souvenirs, they are popular meeting spots for socializing.

Besides the Christmas markets scattered around the city, Vienna has wonderful architectural jewels that can be toured and appreciated in all months. Probably the biggest attraction is Schönbrunn Palace, a magnificent 1,440 room baroque former summer home of the Hapsburg dynasty. It retains much of its splendor, housing much of the fine furnishings and art work from the 16th century, and is still owned by the family. Not surprisingly, it also had a Christmas market!

A view of the palace from the vast gardens behind it.

The central plaza and entrance

Two of the many people who strolled through the Christmas market at
Schönbrunn Palace.

A sculpture reflected in the ice of one of the ponds

View of the palace from the gardens

PRAGUE (PRAHA)
I had heard nothing but superlatives when friends described Prague, the capital of Czechia (formerly known as the Czech Republic), so it was the number 1 destination when we began planning the trip. 

View of Prague's skyline from Charles Bridge just before dawn.

A four hour train ride from Vienna (well, if it doesn't have mechanical problems and there is a one hour wait for a replacement, but that's another story) passes through the beautiful Bohemian countryside. Prague certainly lived up to the hype: it is one of the most beautiful cities I have seen, and the people are very friendly and helpful. Like Vienna, it was packed with tourists from all parts of the globe, enjoying the historic old city, fabulous Charles Bridge, and of course the Christmas markets. 

Christmas market at the Old Town Square and Tyn Church.

Most of Prague's old town streets and squares are cobbled.

Prague's famous astronomical clock, over 600 years old, which has a zodiac ring and as it strikes the hour, a mechanized procession of the twelve apostles is set in motion.

Another view of market stalls at the old city square

A black smith uses modern mobile technology to heat his iron pieces, which he fashions into bell and chime holders.

St Nicholas church in Prague's New Town

Food stalls in Wenceslas Square, a long street closed to traffic during the Christmas season.

Typical stall at the Christmas market

After a cold early morning walk over Charles Bridge, we warmed up with hot cappuccino and delicious warm cake.

No photo tour of Prague would be complete--in any season--without showing some of the city's fabulous old wooden doors. I could not decide on just one example, so here are four.

MUNICH (MÜNCHEN)
The capital of Bavaria is one of Europe's iconic cities: beautiful cathedrals, historic Marienplatz and its mechanized clock, and its famed beer halls. In December, Christmas markets light up the old city, and like in the other places we visited, entertain and enthrall tourists. Although it has been more standardized since I was last there, a walk through the markets along the pedestrian way from Karlsplatz to Marienplatz is a wonderful experience and is the main draw during the holiday season.

This large display is of bear toys "engaged" in all kinds of human activity.

As in all of the cities we visited, the Christmas markets are places where locals meet.

Munich is famous for its beer halls, and although not a special feature of the Christmas markets, they are certainly an important part of the festive atmosphere.

Paulaner brew hall. This beer is one of my favorites.

At the Augustiner brewery and beer hall. The Bavarian food was delicious and although I had never tasted this beer until we walked into the restaurant, I have to say it is now my favorite. The brewery is Bavaria's oldest, founded in the 14th century. They had plenty of time to get it right!

The famous Hofbrau House...

...and its famous brew. If you are a beer lover, Munich is Nirvana. If not, the beer halls are a must anyway, to experience the vibrant German night life.

SALZBURG
The first time I visited Salzburg, I was struck by its breathtaking beauty. I have yet to see a city anywhere that can compare with Salzburg (the birthplace of Mozart). Since we had to pass through Salzburg to get from Munich to Vienna to catch our return flight, we budgeted one day for this fabulous city. Fortunately, it is small and one can easily walk around the old city and even climb to Mönksberg in a day. However, it is highly recommended that visitors take their time to savor this city. A bit surprisingly, although Salzburg is by far the smallest of the four cities we visited, its Christmas market was the largest, occupying most of the plazas and lanes in the old city.

Even on an overcast day, Salzburg is stately and beautiful.

Customers peruse the many items for sale at the vast Christmas market.

View of a portion of the market.

This "angel" was one of many selling tickets for a drawing. Proceeds went to a charity. She graciously accepted my request to pose for a portrait.  

If you are thinking of taking a trip next December before Christmas, add these cities to your list. It is affordable to stay in inexpensive but cozy hotels and travel by very comfortable trains between the cities. The problem, of course, is how to stop from buying the delicious foods, drinks and beautiful hand crafted items in the hundreds of Christmas market stalls!